Albania Road Trip: The Route Time Out Drove

Planning an Albania road trip? This summer, Time Out writer Heidi Fuller-Love drove from Tirana down to the thermal springs of Përmet, and she started her journey with our founder, Eri. Here’s the route she took, what to see at every stop, and the local tips we’d give any first-time driver.

“It’s safe here. You’ll feel very comfortable. You’ll see.”

Eri, founder of Inside Balkan, speaking to Time Out (July 2026)

The Route at a Glance

Stop	Don’t miss	Drive from previous stop
Tirana	Bunk’Art 1, the Blloku district	Start
Durrës	Seafront promenade, Roman amphitheatre, tasqebap	≈ 45 min
Tale & Patok Lagoon	Dunes, bunkers turned cafés, fresh seafood	≈ 1 hr 15 min
Gjirokastër	Old Bazaar, Skënduli House, Cold War tunnel	≈ 4 hrs
Tepelenë → Përmet	Këlcyrë Gorge, Bënja thermal springs, Vjosa River	≈ 2 hrs

Drive times are approximate and depend on road works and photo stops. Trust us, there will be a lot of photo stops.

Tirana: Start With the Cold War

Albania’s capital is the best place to understand everything you’ll see on the road. Bunk’Art 1, a huge dictatorship-era bunker turned museum, explains why the countryside is dotted with concrete domes. Afterwards, spend an evening in Blloku, the former party elite’s neighbourhood that’s now full of cafés and cocktail bars.

Durrës: Beach, History and Lamb Stew

Less than an hour west, Durrës mixes a long sandy beach with 3,000 years of history. Walk the seafront promenade, look for the bronze statues of rock legends (a nod to the music once banned under Hoxha), and order tasqebap, a slow-cooked, garlicky lamb stew.

Tale & the Patok Lagoon: Albania’s Wild Coast

North of Durrës, the coast turns into marshland, dunes and lagoons. Some of the old bunkers here have been turned into cafés and snack bars. This is the place to try a bujtina, a family-run guesthouse where dinner comes from the farm, followed by a plate of fresh shrimp, mussels or crab by the Patok Lagoon.

Gjirokastër: The Stone City

This UNESCO-listed hillside town is the highlight for many travellers. Wander the steep cobbled lanes of the Old Bazaar, tour the 18th-century Skënduli House with its hidden rooms, then head underground into the city’s Cold War tunnel system. Pick up fresh byrek from a local bakery for the next day’s drive.

Tepelenë to Përmet: The Wild River Road

This is the most dramatic and most winding stretch. Past Tepelenë’s clifftop castle, the road threads through the Këlcyrë Gorge and follows the Vjosa, one of Europe’s last free-flowing wild rivers. End the trip soaking in the natural thermal pools at Bënja, just outside Përmet.

Our Local Tips for Driving in Albania

Headlights on, always. Dipped headlights are required day and night.
Zero alcohol. Don’t drink at all if you’re driving.
Download offline maps. GPS signal drops in the mountains and gorges.
Carry cash (lek). Cards work in cities, but many guesthouses and village restaurants are cash only.
Consider an SUV. Small cars are cheap to rent, but unpaved roads to beaches and springs are easier with more clearance.
Take it slow. Mountain roads are narrow, and you’ll share them with goats, tractors and furgons (local minibuses).

Rather Not Drive? Let Us Take the Wheel

A self-drive trip is a great adventure, but many travellers prefer to leave the corkscrew roads to a local. Inside Balkan runs private and small-group tours (maximum 12–14 travellers) along this same route. We handle the driver, the family-run guesthouses and the hidden spots that aren’t on any map.

Browse our Albania tours → or message us on WhatsApp to plan a custom trip.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Albania safe for tourists?

Yes. Albania is generally very safe for visitors, including solo and female travellers. Hospitality is a big part of Albanian culture, and locals are quick to help. Use normal travel common sense, especially on busy beaches in summer.

How many days do I need for this road trip?

Plan at least 6–7 days to cover Tirana, Durrës, the coast, Gjirokastër and Përmet without rushing. With 10 days you can add Berat or the Albanian Riviera.

Is it easy to drive in Albania?

Main highways are in good condition. Mountain roads are narrow and winding and need patience. If you’re not comfortable with that, a private driver or guided tour is the relaxed option.

When is the best time for an Albania road trip?

May–June and September–October bring warm weather, fewer crowds and green landscapes. July and August are hot and busy on the coast. See our month-by-month guide.

Do I need cash in Albania?

Yes. Carry Albanian lek for guesthouses, small restaurants, parking and fuel in rural areas. ATMs are easy to find in towns.

Read the Full Time Out Story

Heidi’s full article, with her encounters along the way, is on Time Out: “I went on a road trip through one of Europe’s most enigmatic countries”.